Hello from a stinking* hot La Rioja

Evening folks!

I’m back from the wilderness (metaphorically, at least, because you could probably argue that I’m literally still in the wilderness. La Rioja has a certain wild-west feel to it). And are you in for a treat in the run up to Christmas. Oh yes! It’s going to be blog-tastic. I hope the combined excitement won’t be too much for any of you. Particularly in light of all the snow that some of you have been having. I must say that Dad’s shots of a (very) snowy Sidmouth gave me a few pangs of homesickness and the feeling of “how bloody typical?: a lifetime spent waiting for a Sidmouth whiteout and the year it comes, I’m on the other side of the world, basking under a 40 degree sun”. Oh well, I know I shouldn’t complain, after all it is lovely here, and I know that some of you would give anything to see the sun right now, but, you know what they say: the grass is always greener on the other side, especially when it has been scorched brown by the sun, or covered by a blanket of snow. The nonsense of which means that in this case I should probably say that the snow is always whiter on the other side. Whatever! You know what I mean. Still, despite the small twinges of snow-related jealousy, I am still having a fabulous time and making the most of every opportunity that comes my way (which in these days in La Rioja means eating Chinese food, trying to avoid the scalding heat of the day and experiencing life as a foreign immigrant living in Argentina!) All of which will become clear in a few days time when I get round to pos(i)ting (that was originally a typo, but it still kind of made sense, so I thought I would edit it and draw your attention to it - pedantic Ed.) the La Rioja Chronicles.

Anyway, I’m going to try to post everyday from now on, until such time that you can read my blog in real-time (well, almost), so that’ll be nice (and give you something to do if you happen to be snowed in over Christmas) . First, cast your mind back to Cordoba, in the relative cool of the late Argentine spring, and we’ll begin where I left off, on the date that follows (below):

Sunday 5^th December 2010

A Sunday lie-in was followed by breakfast (for which the hostel staff are most accommodating – the free breakfast could be provided at any hour of the day). It was quite nice too: criollitos (a kind of cross between puff-pastry and bread) and medialunas (or croissants to speakers of Frenglish), with, yes, you’ve guessed it, dulce de leche! And slightly odd tasting coffee. After fortifying ourselves with sugary goodness, we headed out for the day.

And we actually had quite a productively touristy day, taking in one of the Art Galleries (really rather good for 3 pesos, with a good range of different art works (see www.picasaweb.google.com/sidmouth11/cordoba for some examples) and a nicely converted old belle époque building). A flea market followed (good people watching) and then the nice streets which line the waterway that runs through Cordoba (can’t really call it a river because it makes the Sid look like a raging torrent!). Lunch (or tea, given the timing) was consumed in the park (full of Cordobeses drinking mate), and included the best criollitos and most mediocre sandwiches yet. A sandwich in Argentina is one thing and one thing only. It is the most thinly sliced sliced-white-bread imaginable, filled with one slice of ham and one slice of cheese. To call it bland is to credit it with more flavor than it actually possesses, but it has a certain kind of charm, that perhaps stems from the effort to make something so processed, so neat and so homogenous, as if any deviation from the formula (square and very white) would ruin the whole effect. And it fills a hole. Still, if someone could open the minds and markets of Argentina to the near infinite range of fillings available in the UK they could (possibly) make a killing.                                                                
                                                                                                     

You’re probably thinking that’s just about enough food-related discourse for one day, but there’s more, I’m afraid. We had dinner in an all-you-can-eat International restaurant. It was huge, and rather like a 3 star hotel buffet, but the range of food was impressive and included a lot of fruit and veg (the reason it was called “international”, perhaps!). Needless to say we were absolutely stuffed come the end, and for 6 quid each, you can’t really argue with that!

After dinner we played cards back at the hostel, drinking neat Fernet as a (much-needed) digestif. It has been another good day (sunny and warm, of course), in good company and in a lovely city, which seems a very liveable place indeed.                                                                                               

Monday 6^th December 2010                                                                                      

Most of the day was spent deliberating what to do next. There were various options placed on the table, but we all rather wanted to do different things, so in the end it seemed more sensible to go our separate ways. Adrian wanted to go to Iguazu Falls, so him and Oscar were going to head there (back via Buenos Aires and Rosario, i.e. the long way round… for me the thought of 20 hours on a bus was a step too far!). Andres wanted to go straight back to La Rioja to prepare for an exam later in the week, i.e. the direct route. And I wanted to head over the Sierras Cordobeses towards Mendoza, i.e. the intermediate (or lagom, if you’re Swedish) option. Some of my time in Stockholm has clearly rubbed off!

I decided to spend an extra day in Cordoba first as I really like the hostel and the city, and given the length of my stay I didn’t feel in any particular rush.

After all that deliberation, we needed fortifying, so a massive picnic-style lunch (only eaten indoors, out of the heat) was prepared (with beautiful plate-arrangement courtesy of Adrian). It comprised: bread (quite nice by Argentinian standards, which is to say much better than your average UK loaf, but not as good as continental Europe or Mum’s homemade), cheese (processed crap, not a lot of choice in that department, unfortunately), ham (average), tomatoes (good!), eggs (very good… lovely bright orange yolks). I still gain endless satisfaction from buying and eating food in foreign countries. It just says so much about a place to consider what people eat and drink and the manner in which they do it!

We didn’t bother with wine, as I was feeling a bit coldy, but there’s plenty more time for wine consumption down the road, so happy to have one meal without!

In the afternoon, I had a new “typical Argentinian experience”. Adrian needed to get some money by Western Union transfer, so that required going to the Post Office. To borrow from Craig Revel Horwood, three letters perfectly describe the experience: OMG! We waited in the queue for an hour and a half, only to discover that the number Adrian had was wrong and they couldn’t give him the money. Bugger. Thankfully, a quick trip to an internet cafe, correcting the wrong digit, a bit of queue jumping (the man who had served us waved us back without needing to wait), and a lot of slow bureaucracy (I haven’t come across such ponderous transacting since my days of local government!) later, Adrian had his money. Hooray for that!

We were then able to go the bus station to get our respective tickets. We subsequently treated ourselves to steak (lomo, which I think is like sirloin) and ratatouille for dinner, washed down with more impressive wine (still in the 2 to 3 pound range and almost always delicious). You could go for a 80p briquette, but I figure that after 10 years of gainful employment I am worth (slightly) more than that! Andres got his bus at about 11pm, so it was down to the 3 of us at this point.

Some thoughts on Hostel Che Salguero so far: great place, nice area of Cordoba, lovely staff, and some slightly odd guests (aren’t there always!). To summarise the people watching highlights of the last few days: 2 hard-partying Irish guys, almost impossible to understand; one Canadian girl who just wouldn’t shut up (I know, I can talk!), but generally quite annoying; 3 arrogant Oz “dudes” who didn’t speak to anyone else; one English couple who probably couldn’t look like they were having a worse time if they tried (think there must have been a few “marital difficulties” there); and a random assortment of other nationalities: Germans, Americans, Columbians, etc. Quite a cosmopolitan place, overall. And the major bonus of having Adrian, Oscar and Andres for company. It’s fun travelling alone and meeting new people, but it’s even more fun when you can dissect your fellow travellers and laugh about the bizarre goings on that are part and parcel of hostel life.

Tuesday 7^th December 2010

In the morning I went to see Adrian and Oscar off at the bus station and afterwards walked up to the viewpoint over the city (more disappointing than it sounds). I then went to the modern art gallery only to discover it was closed for refurbishment. Bummer. I headed back for lunch and checking of e-mails (not that anybody had sent me any: gone and already forgotten!). I then proceeded to try my luck with another art gallery. At least this one was open (and free), but a bit disappointing (especially as it was raved about in Lonely Planet). There were no Lucio Fontana works, as promised, either. Still, the building was interesting and there were some okayish modern installations to ponder!

After my shot of culture I had a final wander around the city, which has been uniformly sunny and lovely. Oh, yes, there was also this weird thing with approximately 100 police cars (arranged in 4 rows of 25). I had noticed this on the way to the art gallery and thought “what on earth?” Well, it must have been some kind of ceremony to inaugurate the purchase of 100 new police cars for Cordoba’s police force. There was a brass band and a master of ceremonies, and everything, as well as 100 police officers each standing next to their new cars. Weird!

In the evening I had nice chats with two French guys (studying in Santiago) who complimented me on my French and thus endeared themselves to me instantly, two German girls (who had both studied in the UK and therefore had excellent English), a couple of Argentinians and a Basque (someone from that part of the United States of “Spain”, that is, and not a item of underwear). You certainly meet more people when travelling alone, but whether or not this a good thing is a matter of mood and interpersonal dynamics. On this occasion it was good, but I was still sorry that I had had to say goodbye to Adrian, Oscar and Andres. Oh well, I would see them again in a couple of weeks (which I am doing as I type this)…

Well, I think that is enough for today. The heat should just about have subsided sufficiently to venture outside (i.e. dipped below 35 for the first time since about 10am). I’ll be back with more tomorrow, so until then I will say goodbye.

I’ve uploaded my photos to www.picasaweb.google.com/sidmouth11 and 12, some of which relate to what I’ve written, some of which will make more sense in the days to come...

Enjoy the snow (or sun, or rain, or whatever the sky is throwing at you).

Best wishes,

Love J xx

*also refers to Adrian's bedroom!

A (wine) taster from San Rafael

Hola Chicos!

I've just got time for a very brief update from San Rafael, making the most of siesta time here, while I await the opening of the bodegas for wine tasting. This morning's outing ended in abject failure, as I walked about 15 blocks, only to find one wine company's headquarters (not the vineyard) without a tasting room in sight. Boo. So, it was then another (almost) fruitless search for a supermarket (walking around in ever-decreasing circles), before I stumbled (literally - these flip-flops aren't the most secure walking devices: the French would be shocked by the inappropriate nature of my footwear) upon a corner shop where I was able to procure items for lunch. Suitably sated, I am now able to write this. Since it's been almost a fortnight since my last entry, I am going to head back (virtually) to Buenos Aires, and recommence my day-by-day analysis of proceedings thus far. In the 30 minutes I've got left, I might even get as far as Córdoba (if you're lucky). So, once again, here goes:

Thursday 2nd December 2010

Having managed to obtain a suitable bus ticket the night before (leaving from close to where Cami lives), I was able to sleep soundly (unusually for me) in the knowledge that the following night would be spent riding across the flat plains of Argentina, trying (in vain) to keep my eyes closed while the bus bumped and heaved it´s way to the middle of the country.

Morning brought a breakfast date with Fernanda, Lourdes and Carolina (cafe con leche y medialunas) in a nice (but empty) cafe in the middle of Monte Grande, which was followed by assorted bag-preparation, the eating of a ton of rice salad for lunch (thanks Cami), the drinking of yerba mate and eating of pan dulce (about 10 slices of!) in the garden. I could probably survive the entire trip on my fat reserves alone, such was the generosity I experienced staying in M.G.

So, that was nearly it. The time for "real" (i.e. unaccompanied) travel was nigh. Martín came to say goodbye (which was nice) and I was packed off with a load of food for the journey and the whole family came with me in the car to say goodbye (including Brisa, the adorable spannel* [sic.]).

I must say the bus was very comfortable (almost like a Business Class airline seat) and not at all expensive (28 pounds for a 12 hour journey). However, being in possession of Dad's travel-sleep genes, I didn't manage to sleep much. There were also some rather abrupt changes in temperature, which did wonders for my cold. Not. It started off freezing cold (air-con on max) so I put on my fleece. Then they turned the air-con off, so I got really hot. This process duly continued until my throat was nice and sore and my nose was running like Paula Radcliffe (i.e. a lot, not stopping running half-way for a shit).

*this is a Wood family joke, for anyone puzzled by the deliberate misspelling


Friday 3rd December 2010

We arrived into Córdoba more or less on time (well, about 30 mins late, but I'm feeling generous - and anyway, I was too zonked to really care). Adrián, Oscar and Andres were waiting for me at the bus station, which was nice. The day passed in something of a sleep-deprived blur, so I will record the events of the day in the form of a bullet-pointed list (reflecting the effort required to complete the most simple of tasks [and the resulting satifaction from getting them done without falling asleep]):

• Went to hostel (which I had rigourously researched) to dump bags (check-in wasn't until 12 noon)Looked around city (good first impressions - a more manageable size than B.A.) and stopped in a cafe to have breakfast.
• Bought empanadas and wine for lunch.
• Drank wine.
• Had siesta.
• Went to park. Skimmed stones in a fetid and filthy lake (sorry Córdoba, but it was). Otherwise it was a pleasant park (sort of green and park-like, but not parky because it must have been about 28 degrees).
• Ate asado at the hostel and drank more wine.
• Drank Fernet and coke (and could develop a serious liking for it, I fear).
• Went to Studio Teatro nightclub, which played good music and was (as the name might suggest) in a nice old theatre.
• Danced the night away (literally)
• Went to bed at about 7am (thus meaning I should now be writing this in the following day's entry, which I shall duly jump to).

Saturday 4th December 2010

We all had a good long lie-in (the whole sleep pretty much being a lie-in if you consider that my normal get-up time is about 7:15am), with meals now operating on a time-delay system. Thus, breakfast is at lunchtime (on this occasion actually a late lunch), lunch is at dinnertime and dinner is in the middle of the night (a midnight snack, if  you like, only 10 times the size*!)

Once again the weather was just about perfect, and we engaged in further city-rambling. This time we went as far as the river at the northern limit of the centre (not that exctiting, but the whole city is a very pleasant place to stroll - I like Córdoba a lot). The undoubted highlight of the walk was Adrián desperately needing a poo (recallying memories of Dad's infamous stay on the Italian Riviera), and being unable to find a toilet anywhere (much hilarity came from the discovery of a toilet shop, though!). Eventually he found a toilet in a petrol station, but he was so long we thought he was needing to wash himself down, after finding the toilet "just a few seconds too late". This provided ample opportunity to bond with Oscar and Andres (Adrián's Chinese housemates), as we used toilet humour to bridge the linguistic gap!

I cooked pasta for dinner. More wine was consumed and we went to a nice bar in the evening (well, more middle-of-the-night if you are reading this in northern Europe or in another colder clime). It was a more relaxed evening than the previous one but equally enjoyable and still later than your typical Sidmouth night out.

Well, that's all I've got time for, for now. The rest of Córdoba, Mina Clavero, San Luis and now San Rafael will just have to wait. Don't worry, I've been having a good time wherever I've been. This time next week I'll be staying with Adrián in La Rioja, so I should hopefully have better computer access from there, and thus be able to get this blog back on track. Until then, I will wish you all a happy and healthy run-up to Christmas and I'll try sending some of the Argentinian sun to anyone out there suffering from S.A.D. (the weather continues to be glorious here, it must be said, which will no doubt leave you all with a sour taste in your mouth, as those of you back home [or nearby] freeze your collective bits off).

Time for wine-tasting now (sorry, I'm not deliberately trying to make you jealous**)...

Hasta luego,
Love J xx

*eat you heart out Nigella!
**not much! ;-)

The last few days in Monte Grande

As promised earlier, I'm back with a day by day update of the last four days.

Sunday 28th November

Sunday started early (at about 12:30am) because Saturday never really finished! Carolina and Fernanda came to pick Camila and me up from her house, from where we went to Monte Grande's very own Irish Pub. I felt it only right that I should drink a cerveza negra, although it was a local variety, which more resembled a fizzy, sweet black lager than the velvety black meal-in-a-glass that is Guinness, but still, it was actually quite nice. Axel then came to meet us, but stayed in the pub (for political reasons) while we went to the Rugby Club for the social event of the year month week evening.

The most notable aspect of the evening was the drop in temperature (mentioned in my previous post), and generally speaking it wasn't quite as much fun as the previous evening. The crowd was bigger and younger, the music more repetitive and I was rather more tired. By 5am I was falling asleep and as the sun started to rise (with beautiful colours in the sky) it was time to hit the sack.

I managed to sleep until almost lunchtime (and so was quite impressed with myself!), and upon arising, went downstairs to discover an asado being prepared in the back garden. This time it was chicken rather than beef, with plenty of different salads (I was starting to crave vegetables, so they were much appreciated), and it was washed down with a nice bottle of Torrontés from Cafayate in the north west of Argentina (where I hope to go to later in my trip).

In the afternoon we went round to Fernanda's house (one of Camila's friends whose graduation party I had been to on Friday night), for mate and facturas in the garden. We stayed there chatting for most of the evening (eating emanadas for dinner later on) before going to Cream & Cream (Monte Grande's prime Heladeria) for a late night ice-cream. All in all a very pleasant and relaxing day, mostly spent eating! :-)

Monday 29th November

After the exertions of the weekend (we're talking late-night-style exertions rather than anything truely taxing: I'm on holiday, after all), Monday began very slowly. So slowly that I can't really remember what I did for most of the day. It probably involved lounging around, eating (naturally), speaking with various different people, checking e-mails and generally getting my energy back. The temperature was on the rise again, I remember that much, and the sun was shining. :-)

In the late afternoon/evening, Martín, Camila and I went into Palermo SoHo (that's a district of Buenos Aires) for picadas (nibbles) and beer. It's a really nice area of the city, but a bit of a pain to get there (a combination of train and bus, which took about 2.5 hours door to door). Still, at least with good company the time goes quickly. I can't imagine having to commute like that every day though, which probably suggests that big city living isn't really for me!

Tuesday 30th November

Sightseeing was back on the agenda today, although I woke up with a bit of a sore throat and felt a bit lethargic as a result. I must also have been rendered (even) more clumsy than usual because I managed to snap my old (spare) glasses while trying to reshape them! They broke clean in the middle (where the bridge joins the frame). Whoops. I just have to hope now that my main glasses remain intact for the whole trip (although I suppose it  would be possible to get replacements if not).

Anyway, despite feeling under-par I managed to make it into Buenos Aires (all alone this time). I spent the day wandering around La Boca, which is a mixture of slightly rough working-class barrio and tourist trap tat. Still, it was an interesting place and the PROA museum/gallery was beautiful and a nice air-conditioned refuge from the heat of the midday sun. After La Boca, I walked back up to the very centre of the city, perusing further streets in San Telmo and Monserrat, and taking plenty of photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sidmouth11/BuenosAiresPartII (in case you haven't already seen Part I, they are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/sidmouth10/BuenosAires

The train journey back was less packed than usual and I managed to get a seat for once. This proved to be a potential curse (as well as a blessing), because I fell asleep (most unlike me - I must be ill!) and wondered where I was when I woke up. As it happened I was about 2 minutes away from Monte Grande. Luckily, I saw the sign just in time (still wondering if I was dreaming or not) and managed to leap out of my seat and off the train. Phew. That was a close shave (although there are only 2 stops after Monte Grande, so it wouldn't exactly have been a disaster, even if I had missed the stop and had to get the train back - especially as it only costs about 20p a journey).

After a quick freshen up (desperately needed after trekking around in the heat), we went to Fernanda's birthday gathering (stopping to buy a present en route). It was a classic "birthday tea party", with cute little sandwiches, rolls and cakes (and the obligatory fizzy drinks, of course!). The tea party sort of rolled into the evening, with hot dogs and lemon-meringue-pie-birthday-cake (with candles). And it ended with Carla dropping her phone down the back of the armchair, which got completely stuck. It was rather funny, because you could hear it ringing, but there was no way of retrieving it. I don't know if they managed in the end because our taxi had arrived and we had to leave. If I receive any updates about the fate of the phone, I'll be sure to let you know!

Wednesday 1st December

Well, here we are. It's now today and my cold has got a little bit worse (oh, the irony - in England it's minus a lot and here it's summer and I've gone and got myself a sore throat and a runny nose... go on, laugh why don't you!!!). This, combined with rising heat levels, has meant that I've stayed at (Cami's*) home so far today. I was chatting with Adrián earlier, and it now seems that we're going to meet up in Córdoba on Friday. This will entail getting the overnight bus from here on Thursday evening (it's about 10 hours), which will be an experience in itself. In a little while we are going to the travel agents to try and sort out the ticket (hopefully getting picked up from as close to here as possible, because the main bus station is rather a schlep).

Right, that's it for now. Updates might get more sporadic and fragmented from now on. I'm not sure when I'll have decent computer access, but I'll do my best to keep you informed. For those of you in cooler climes: wrap up warm and enjoy the snow (if you've got any, that is - which is unlikely in Sidmouth, I guess).

Best wishes to you all,
Love James xx

*I put this in afterwards because I realised that saying "home" made it sound like I'd got my feet well and truly under the table (but obviously it was just a subconcious way of saying how much I've been made to feel at home while I've been staying here). :-)

Reflections on life in Argentina (after one week)...

Cripes! Time flies when you're idle... It's already December. Happy month everyone! I hear Europe (the northern part, at least) is in the grip of a cold spell. Therefore it would be inconsiderate of me to brag about the fantastic weather we are having here at the moment. No-one likes a smug, self-centred so and so, do they? But, I can't resist... the weather has been gorgeous! The only time I felt the slightest bit chilly was at about 5 am on Sunday morning, when a southerly wind picked up and reduced the temperature to about 8 degrees. For anyone as meterologically nerdy as me you can have a look here and chart the weather's progress throughout my trip (I'm guessing that, Dad, you'll probably be the only one taking me up on this kind offer): http://www.weatheronline.co.uk/weather/maps/city?LANG=en&PLZ=_____&PLZN=_____&WMO=87576&ART=MIN&CONT=samk&R=0&LEVEL=150&REGION=0016&LAND=AG&MM=11&YY=2010&WEEK=2&NOREGION=1&MOD=&TMX=&TMN=&SON=&PRE=&MONAT=&OFFS=&SORT=

Moving on from the weather, I thought it was time for a few observations about life in Argentina. First impressions, if you like:

• Actually, I'll move on from the weather in a minute, because first I have one last nugget of infomation that I want to share (I can almost hear the yawns from here!). What's been most interesting thing weather-wise, so far (for me), is that there was a sudden (and quite dramatic) drop in temperature between Friday and Saturday, of about 20 degrees (if you're Italian this will explain why I've now got a bit of cold, if you're not then you can blame a slightly weakened immune system brought on by a change of environment, some late nights and a host of new, exotic viruses, waiting to attack me). Anyway, this type of temperature change is quite normal here, apparently. It happens when the wind changes direction - we're not so far from Antarctica, after all):
• People here seem to have a major aversion to fruit and vegetables. I don't think I've seen a single person consume a piece of fruit since I've arrived. Oh, actually, we did eat some strawberries once, but they had to be doused in sugar to render them palatable! ;-)
• The tea party is alive and well in Argentina! Fancy little sandwiches, cakes (facturas) and (instead of tea) oceans of gaseosas (fizzy pop). I guess Argentina must be the biggest consumer of fizzy drinks in the world. It's no wonder that Coca-Cola is such a successful company. They must make billions out of Argentina alone. ;-)
• And talking of sweet things, they just love sugar in general. Dulce de leche is quite possibly the sweetest substance known to mankind and they use it in/on just about everything. That's not to say I don't like it, just that you can.
• Lots of people here drink mate (not you, Máté). It's a kind of bitter infusion (from a relative of the holly bush). I don't think it's narcotic (at least I haven't noticed any effects), but it's quite a good digestive (no, not a biscuit) and I rather like the whole ceremony attached to it. One person is the cebador (i.e. the person who serves the mate). They pour hot (but not boiling) water onto the dried leaves (which are traditionally contained in a gourd), and the tea is drunk through a metal straw, which mustn't be (re)moved until the session is finished. Each person drinks the mate until the liquid has gone, and then the cerbador refills it and passes it to the next person. You need to change the mate once it starts floating to the surface. Oh, and you don't say gracias until you've had enough, which for a polite Englishman is an exercise in restraint.
• Everyone warns me about how potentially dangerous things are (and I'm not saying it's not, but rather that I haven't felt in immediate danger so far). They must consider the risk of crime to be quite high, though, because everyone has bars on their windows and avoids walking around at night. But I'm not sure its much worse than parts of England. I wonder if it's mainly because Argentinians consider Europe to be virtually crime-free, and worry that we are a bit wet-behind-the-ears as a result. As someone who has experienced 3 burglaries and 2 black-eyes, survived 2 weeks travelling with a con-artist (http://sidmouthian.blogspot.com/2007/01/asylum-diaries-aka-ryan-saga.html) and foiled a potential bag-snatch in Marseille, I hope I am reasonably vigilent and not too naive a traveller. Obviously I don't wish to tempt fate (and will remain suspicious [not to say paranoid] at all times) but as a naturally worrier, I don't really need people to make me even more anxious than I already am (but I do appreciate their concern and efforts to make me safe and happy)!
• People are very friendly and curious to meet and talk to "el inglés". Which is nice.
• Lots of things remind me of southern Italy: eating very late (never before 9pm), not going out until well after midnight, going to bed at 7am, going out for an ice-cream at midnight, not drinking as much as the British (but drinking more than the average Italian), going to the beach for a month in the summer (everything stopping for the whole of January). 
• However, it's like a slightly Americanised version of Italy (the grid-system, more convenience food, fewer long-standing traditions, a corrupted version of the language ;-), reliance on the motor car [oh, that's the same as both Italy and America!]...) 
• People drink wine with ice and/or sparkling water! 
• At birthday parties people play a strange game involving dropping a mobile phone down the back of an armchair and then attempting to get it back out again. This game can last for at least an hour, and is a bit like a Krypton Factor mental agility challenge.
• Everyone's mother owns a school.
• Lots of people seem to both work and study, which I suppose is a reality of the modern world and makes me realise how easy I had it when I was at university.

Well, that's enough for now. It hopefully gives you a taste of life here, at least. I'll be back later with the more prosaic details of the last few days...

J xx

Getting the blog back on track

Hello again. I've decided to get the blog up-to-date whatever happens today, even if it means writing a haiku or a one-word summary of the last few days. It'll probably start with a flourish and end with a whimper, but at least I'll be able to go out this evening relaxed in the knowledge that I've done as much as I can to keep you posted.

Right, Tuesday is probably going to be more detailed, because it was the last day I actually wrote an entry in my diary, so let's start with that (I can just copy it word for word!):

Tuseday 23rd November 2010

After a good night's sleep I woke up to an empty house, well almost empty, because Amalia, the cleaner, was downstairs. I had been warned about this the night before, plus the fact that I would need my best Spanish to communicate, so it didn't come as a total shock. Well, I managed to understand when she asked if I was having breakfast inside or out (outside, obviously!) and from there our conversation progressed onto the good old stand-by topic of the weather.

After breakfast (Italian style) I went to meet Axel at the hotel where he works. It's a lovely boutiquey place only a few blocks from where Camila lives (I'm having to get used to everything being in blocks here, much like in the USA). We then went to the bank (successful extraction of Pesos) before heading back to Camila's for lunch. After lunch I spent a while catching up on internetty stuff (wow, this is informative stuff... I'm even boring myself here!) before Martín and Juliette came proferring cakes. OMG, what an abundance of goodness! I managed 3 with a cup of tea (thus allowing this little rhyme). Martín ate eight! Yes, you read that right. It is one more than seven.

I had previously agreed with Axel to go out with him, Carolina and Lourdes for an aperitif. So, no sooner had I licked my lips clean of sugar, than I was sat in a pavement cafe in Los Lomitas, drinking an artisanal beer (a lovely caramel/honey-tasting fruity affair) and consuming "picada" (a vast board of meats and cheeses + olives, crisps, peanuts and aubergine [not a whole, raw aubergine (obviously), but pieces, cooked and marinated in oil and vinegar, and a bit too much salt!]).

Then, just in case I wasn't already full enough, it was back to Camila's in time for dinner. If I carry on eating at this rate, I will exceed the rate of weight gain that I achieved in Italy (which in itself was a staggering 3kg in 2 weeks). If I keep going at this rate, that equates to at least 2 stone(s) over the course of my trip. Instead of writing this diary entry, I felt I should have gone for a long walk instead, but lethargy overcame me and I decided to go for a calorie-burning 9-hour sleep instead. Tomorrow: el Capital!

Wednesday 24th November

After a glorious uninterrupted sleep (I have slept so well in Cami's room, it has been wonderful, for which I owe her a massive debt of gratitude - Thank you!), I went with Martín (who had kindly offered to accompany me) to get the train into the centre. I had been warned about how dirty, congested and generally unpleasant it was, but I have to say it was no worse than the London Underground. And, of course, there is the added benefit of it being a cultural insight into the place that I am visiting (Cumbia music and ambulant sellers being prime examples)!

After saying goodbye to Martín - he had to go and sit an exam, I walked up Av. 9 July (otherwise known as "My Birthday Avenue" - which also happens to be Independence Day in Argentina) to the obelisk and then back down to Cami's university to meet her after her exam (exam season is in full swing in Argentina at the moment, as it is approaching the end of the academic year). As befits the widest avenue in the world, it was very wide indeed. And very busy too! My first impressions were of a hectic modern city, teeming with life.

After we met up, we walked north, via Plaza Libertad, The Palace of Justice and Teatro Colon, to Plaza San Martín. Here, Cami said goodbye (to go to work at her mother's school - every mother owns a school in Monte Grande - or, from the people I have met, so it seems!). I then proceeded to explore the centre, Puerto Madero and San Telmo, before getting the train back (all by myself - which everyone was terribly impressed by, given my apparent naiviety and innocence abroad!!!). I was probably most impressed with Puerto Madero (modern expansiveness, with some beautiful new parks), and San Telmo (historic quaintness with Tango Dancers in the central square). But I also really like Plaza San Martín, which boasts (god, that sounds like a brochure!) a very large tree in the centre and the glorious blue flames of Jacaranda trees all around. Naturally, the lack of public toilets of course causes me a few problems (god, that sounds like I've got bona fide prostate problems!), but I'm managing, through a mixture of enforced dehydration and making the most of any opportunity that arises!

For a bit more colour and detail re the above, I can let the photos do the talking: http://picasaweb.google.com/sidmouth10/BuenosAires#

I was pretty tired in the evening, so I am assuming that after dinner (al fresco - que lindo!) we didn't do very much (apart from sit around and chat). However, when it is so balmy (and the air fragrant with jasmine), sitting around chatting is a lovely thing to do...

Thursday 25th November

Thursday was a virtual repeat of Wednesday, albeit in a different area of the city and with the company of Martín for more of the day. Again, we got the train into the centre together (this time it was free [because they didn't have any change!] instead of the extortionate sum of 1.35 pesos [about 20p]). This time I had the added adventure of getting the underground [1.10 pesos] and took in the sights of Retiro, Recoleta and Palermo (the highlights of which were the cemetery and the botanical gardens). However, I enjoyed the relative opulence of Recoleta and Palermo, where the tree-lined avenues reminded me of Paris and Rome (the newer bits) respectively. Oh, and the underground was also free on the way back (this time because the electronic gates weren't working). I'm doing well from the already well-state-subsidised public transport system.

Cami's Milanesas in the evening were a culinary triumph, and I once again went to bed full and tired after a busy but fulfilling day. Oh, yes, and I also went to visit Amelia's English school before dinner (Amelia is the lady who organises the Argentinian trip to S.I.S.). Much like when I was in Locorotondo, I was invited to play an active role in a lesson, speaking to the students and getting an interesting insight into what life is like in an overseas language school (as it happens it reminded me a lot of Italy, which Argentina is managing to do in many ways!)

Friday 26th November

Nursing still-sore feet from the previous two days, I decided to take it easy on Friday and spend the day in Monte Grande (at least during the day). In the afternoon I went to Carolina's mother's school, where I spoke to some of the teachers and students. It was a nice afternoon (very hot too - the temperature has been on the increase since I arrived, along with a lot of sunshine [I burnt my nose and neck walking around the city] - reaching 32 degrees on Friday). There seem to be a lot of small private schools in Monte Grande, but I think it's just a co-incidence that I've met 3 people whose mothers own 3 different schools!

After a mid-afternoon ice-cream stop (dulce de leche and walnut and bitter chocolate - yum!), in the evening we went round to one of Cami's friend's houses (Tincho), for pizza and drinks (Fernet Branca and coke, an Argentinian classic!), prior to going to another friend's graduation party in a bar/nightclub in Palermo. In true Argentinian style we didn't get to the club until 2am and I managed to stay the distance until 6am (sweating buckets in the process... I don't think the temperature dropped much from the peak it had reached during the day). Still, despite being rather a late night for me (according to the others it was early - they don't usually get back until 8am!), it was a lot of fun. The club and the company were both great, so I didn't mind losing a few hours sleep in the process!

Saturday 27th November

Saturday started slowly after such a late night (early morning), but soon picked up pace when we went out for lunch. We had asado (number 2!), which comprised the following:

Matambre (a special cut of beef, stuffed with a filling, rather like your stuffed breast of lamb, Mum!)
Vacío (another cut of beef)
Chinculines (chitterlings - your favourite, Dad, and Cami's dad's favourite too!)
Morcilla (black pudding)
Chorizo (I hope you all know what that is - although it's a little bit different from it's Spanish cousin)
Molleja (sweetbreads - which aren't testicles [a common misapprehension] but a gland found in the neck of a cow, I believe - although I'm happy to stand corrected by any butchery expects out there)
Red peppers (for a token veg content!)

It was all delicious and accompanied by a couple of different salads and red wine (of course). We then visited some elderly relatives of Cami's family, which was interesting as they were former grocers and still had the old-fashioned grocery shop (sadly now closed) attached. It was like a walk down memory lane (meat-slicers and scales bringing back assorted childhood memories)...

I'm now writing this prior to another late night (this time a party/gathering at Monte Grande Rugby Club). But before that I'm going to make dinner and have something to drink...

I hope all is well with you.

Best wishes,
James xx

Actually telling you something about Argentina (maybe)

Afternoon folks.

I've got precisely 30 minutes before going out for an ice-cream (to help bridge the gap between lunch and the late Argentinian dinner). You'll be pleased to hear that "operation weight-gain" is proceeding nicely! So, as I sit here, laying down fat into my adipose tissue, I'm going to start telling you about what's happened since I left you last time (on the way to the airport). Without further ado, here goes:

Sunday 21st November 2010 (continued)

...it was a bit of a long wait at the aiport (4 hours of trying not to fall asleep and miss my flight), but I must say that I felt at home in Terminal 1 (after what must be more than 30 or 40 Saturdays over the last couple of years, already idled away there). I did the obligatory perfume-testing, loitered around in case of whisky tasting (there was none) and generally mooched around to kill the time.

The flight left more or less on time and was okay but no more (Qatar and Singapore's respective airlines have clearly spoilt me). 3 stars, at a push. The meal/drink service was cursory to say the least, but I did manage to procure a red wine and a (large) whisky, so that helped to knock me out. I even managed a solid 3-hour stretch of kip at one point, which must surely be some kind of record for a male member of the Wood family.

The flight was generally uneventful (not even that much turbulence to get excited about), but I was sat next to an interesting character. He is what I can only describe as a Brazilian boxer/cage-fighter, which I am obviously guessing at (we had no formal communication), but judging by his rude manner ("oi, more coke" to the flight attendant), buldging biceps and the fact that he punched me a couple of times while I was sleeping would seem to hint in this direction. But, (in the words of the passenger arriving back home from Lanzarote last December) I survived!

Monday 22nd November 2010

I arrived at Sao Paulo airport about 2 hours ahead of schedule, which meant a rather long wait for my connecting flight. The airport didn't provide much of an insight into Brazil, although there were some fantastically atmospheric views of the surrounding favelas on the way out. And OMG, the city is HUGE. It goes on forever. Wow.

Unforunately, despite having an optimally-located window seat (no wing to obscure the view - well, obviously the plane had a wing - two of them, in fact - but I was sat near the back) it was cloudy most of the way down to B.A. It did break up a bit over the River Plate, so I could see the beast of a (brown) river making its mighty way out to sea (also brown, albeit slightly less so). And then B.A. was sprawled out below, seemingly as vast as S.P. We landed slightly ahead of schedule and I have to say the flight was a vast improvement on the first leg. There was even a choice of food this time (chicken or meat). I assumed the meat was some kind of Brazilian bush-meat/road-kill (or at least, something without a name), so I went for the chicken instead. Accompanied by red wine (obtained after a lengthy exchange - me: "red wine, please", hostess: "water?", me: "no, red wine, please", hostess: eh?, me: "RED WINE", hostess "quizzicle expression", me: *points to bottle*...). We got there in the end, and it was rather a nice Argentinian Malbec at that.

So, we land and wait on the tarmac for what seems like an eternity (obviously getting a bit excited at this point). And then, after worrying about being stopped by immigration and customs (for no particular reason - just officialdom-inspired paranoia), I found myself in the arrivals hall before I knew it.

Carina was the first person I saw, swiftly followed by Axel, Camila and Lourdes (in alphabetical order, so as not to discriminate). Needless to say I was very happy to see them on my first (ever) day in South America. They dropped me off at Camila's house in Monte Grande (not far from the airport), where I had a quick shower (and sit down) before we headed over to Camila's Aunt's house for her birthday party. It's quite different from Monte Grande (which is a proper town, albeit attached to Buenos Aires). It was a nice modern house on a gated compound, with lovely wooded grounds. We were a bit late for lunch (it was my second of the day - having had the first one on the plane at about 10am). It was a typical Argentinian asado (BBQ) - gorgeous meat washed down with a very nice bottle of Patagonian Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot (not the whole bottle - I'm not that bad - at least, not on the first day). So, just over 2 hours in the country and I had already experienced  my first asado/red wine combination. And the hospitality extended to me was amazing. Everyone was so welcoming, I cannot describe how well they managed to put me at ease (my first few hours on the continent and I already felt at home).

After eating we went for a walk around the complex, admiring the trees and plants (which looked lovely in their late spring glory - this reminds me of the "don't the trees look beautiful at this time of year" taxi incident in Durham!). It seemed strange leaving in late autumn and arriving in late spring. But, obviously a very good kind of strange. The weather was bright and warm (low 20s I would guess). A nice gentle introduction, indeed. After birthday cake and bubbly we drove back to Camila's house, at which point we had a light shower, just so that I didn't feel too homesick!

Dinner was empanadas (Argentinian pasties) and I stuck it out until 10:30pm before collasping into bed. In summary, after a long and tiring journey I found a fanstastic welcome waiting for me at the other end. Things bode very well indeed....

Well, it's ice-cream time! I'm going to have to be more concise with future updates, because I'm already 4 days behind schedule! Whoops (that's whoops as is "oh dear", rather than whoops as in "makes sound like an American expressing mild interest"). So much for good intentions!

I hope all is well with you in a cold and snowy England (sorry... I feel a bit guilty, but I only escaped the winter, I didn't create it!).

Best wishes,
Love J xx

A Voice from the Other Side (of the Atlantic)

Hello.

I made it! I fell from the sky (not literally... it was actually quite a soft landing) and Argentina opened it's arms to catch me. In other words, I've landed on my feet, good and proper. I arrived yesterday and had a small welcoming committee at the aiport to meet me (you know who you are... and I am very grateful). That was just over 24 hours ago, and in that time I have been made to feel very much at home, so have settled in already. I think I'm going to like it here! :-)

Anyway, to start at the beginning, I thought I would tell you briefly (or not so briefly, knowing my own propensity for unedited waffle) about my weekend in London, because that too was fun, and provided a nice transition from the calm of Sidmouth to the big city action of Buenos Aires. So, chronologically speaking, this is what I've been up to the last few days. I'm getting into the spirit of the siesta (i.e. not doing anything during the afternoon... but instead of sleeping,  I'm using the time to keep virtually connected to the outside world). Anyway, from the beginning, here goes:

Saturday 20th November 2010

I made use of the wonderful (and now world-famous) SIS bus service to London Heathrow, with Gareth and Helen for company (thanks guys). It evoked wonderful memories of all the Heathrow runs I've done over the last 3 years (and I'm not even being sarcastic). We even stopped at Fleet Services for old times' sake. No free fry-up this time though (with only one student on the list, it would probably have been pushing it a bit too far).

Upon arrival in London I met up with Tiziano (who was waiting for me when I got there - surely a first for a Southern Italian, being 15 minutes early!). We went to the Saatchi Gallery which was, apart from a couple of exhibits (featuring used sump oil and dried instects respectively), a bit, well, er, to be frank, crap. Still, we had a nice walk through Holland Park and Kensington, looking at various posh pads and posh people. Nice to see how the other half (or rather, the other 0.01%) live.

After returning to the hotel for a shower we met up with Alex and Sara (from Surrey and Puglia respectively, but all connected via Locorotondo), who had been ice-skating in Hyde Park. The walk was rather longer than anticipated (Hyde Park is a bit bigger than Arcot Park, as it turns out), and the corner of Hyde Park devoted to a Christmas-themed fun fair was absolutely heaving (interesting people-watching, mind). After meeting up with the others it was decided (note the use of the passive) to go and get dinner in Covent Garden. It wasn't exactly the evening of pubs and carefully-researched dining in Notting Hill that I had in mind, but I've got to learn to be more spontaneous and anyway it turned out well in the end. I had a lovely lamb steak and the house wine was eminently quaffable. The highlight of the evening for Tiziano was the visit to the Apple Store (Dad - you'd have loved it too), where he managed to get his damaged iphone replaced (which he had been unable to do in Italy), showing us all that the all-powerful Apple customer service machine is alive and well (even in the biggest Apple store in the world). Well done Apple: another satisfied customed (and an impressed bystander)!


Sunday 21st November 2010

After the inevitable sleepless night (excitement unfortunately overrode the very comfortable and quiet hotel room), we met up with Carole, Ed and nephew at the Science Museum (what a load of patronising old tat that is!). I ate the most ridiculously over-sweetened chocolate brownie every made (even Greg Wallace would have turned his nose up at that), which further clouded my judgement. I won't be going back there: even free is too expensive. Anyway, it was nice to see Carole and Ed, even if it wasn't so nice to feel nauseous for the whole morning (I blame the combination of nerves and sugar-intoxication).

We wandered back over to Notting Hill for lunch. The first pub was rammed (Windsor Castle was the name - very atmospheric and cosy-looking), so we moved on. The next two pubs didn't do food, but then we found one (The Churchill Arms) with a Thai restaurant attached, which was a bargain to boot (7 pounds for a massive curry/stir fry). Finally, we wandered along Portobello Road before heading back to the hotel to collect bags and make our way to the airport. After saying the last goodbye to the known it was unknown here I come...

After waffling on for ages, I've run out of time and not even actually told you anything about my first impressions of Argentina. Martin and Juli are about to come over and then I've got an appointment with Axel, Lourdes and Carolina. What a busy social whirl! Oh well, (if you're interested) you'll just have to come back for more later...

Monday 22nd November 2010: please come back for an update

Tuesday 22nd November 2010: it hasn't even finished yet. Be patient!

PS The spell check is in Spanish, so please excuse any misspellings, typos, gross misuse of the English language, or other content liable to offend those of you with more delicate lingual sensibilities (sensitive tongues?). If anyone would like to be my editor, please post your pedantic comments below!

Packing Procrastination

1. ¡Buenas tardes!

With just 3 days, 3 hours and 9 minutes remaining, a small error has been brought to my attention.

It was kindly pointed out to me today (thanks Simon), that the title of my blog was somewhat misleading, given that I'm still actually in Sidmouth. I was umming and aaaaaaaaahing (that's with a Devon accent, hence the preponderance of "a"s) about a name change, and was (fleetingly) considering the following:

1. A Sidmouthian at Home

2. A Sidmouthian in Sidmouth

3. Still at home (with a Load of Geriatrics*)

4. Counting Down the Days (in God's Waiting Room)...

5. A Load of Old Pre-Travel Bollocks

In the end I settled for the above (that's "A Sidmouthian (Almost) Abroad" for the sake of prosperity, i.e. once I remove the bracketed item from the blog in precisely 4 days). In order to please the pedants among you I envisage that it will read "A Sidmouthian (Travelling) Abroad" for the duration of my flight. I hope there's free internet in São Paulo airport so that I can make said change forthwith.

If it wasn't already patently obvious (the title was a not-so-subtle hint), I should really be sorting out what to take with me instead of writing this mierda de toro. But procrastination always was my strong point.

Just to prove I'm still in Sidmouth, here's another wintry photo for your delectation (dedicated to all those who have been to Sidmouth at some point in their (undoubtedly-enriched-as-a-result) lives:

Hasta Luego amigos,

James xx

*I'm not referring to my colleagues, by the way.

Wintry Sky

A wintry photo taken from Core Hill (that's in Sidmouth for any non-locals), to remind myself of what I'll be leaving behind (in 5 days, 2 hours and 9 minutes). I can't wait (no, really. I really can't wait... it's like being desperate for the toilet. And I'm about to burst [most of you know how weak my bladder is]. In fact, it's starting to make me a go a little bit [more] crazy [than usual]). Ooh, lots of brackets: normal service has most definitely been resumed.

Gotta go (to the toilet)...

J xx

7 days away

Good evening peeps. In an attempt to keep up the momentum on the blog front (and thus increase the chances of actually keeping it going once en route), I thought I'd attempt a postette prior to making dinner. I haven't got anything remotely interesting to say, but it's now less than 7 days until I leave for warmer climes and, all being well, this time next week I'll be basking in the sunshine of the Southern Hemisphere (they're 3 hours behind us, by the way, so it's currently 14:41 for all you time-zone aficionados out there). Yay to that (the sunshine bit, that is... whilst I am a bit of a geography geek, the time difference isn't something I get really excited about).

For those unaware of the details, I'll be in Argentina for 90 days in total... starting out in Buenos Aires... meeting up with a bunch of the nicest students I have ever taught (you know who you are!) and seeing where the wind blows me from there. I've got vague ideas of where to go and what to do (wine-tasting!) but no concrete plans. I'm not intending to rush around ticking sights off a list. I just want to get a flavour of the country (which in my mind is currently a combination of beef and red wine, with a bit of dulce de leche sweetness to finish and maybe a touch of Fernet bitterness on a Friday night). I would also like learn a bit of Spanish and (perhaps most importantly) escape from the winter blues. If I achieve all that then it will be mission accomplished. I'll be as happy as Larry (is that Larry the lamb? [come on, admit it, who else read that in a tremulous voice?] Hmm... Just wondering...). Anything else will simply be an added bonus.

Well, that's enough twaddle for now. It's time to load up on carbs and fibre before the onslaught of protein begins...

Have a good evening!

James xx

Reactivation

Good evening from a cold, wet, autumnal Sidmouth (it's decidedly dreary here today). It's been a while (over 3 years, in fact) since I posted anything on this blog. It's not that I've been in prison or anything, or even stuck in Sidmouth for the whole time. I just haven't felt the need to blog about travelling during the last third of a decade. "Why's that?" the more curious among you may ask (or not). Well, it's probably because I don't actually consider myself to have "travelled" in that time. I've lived in Sweden, yes. I've been a tourist in a lot of other places, too, yes. But the backpack has stayed in the attic during the whole of that time. But no longer! It came down this morning (not of it's own accord, I went up there to get it, obviously), I blew the dust off and opened all the pockets to give it a good airing. And I also found a few mementos inside that had been there since it was put away all that time ago. A random assortment indeed: a pair of chopsticks, a fly net/hat, a camping knife, fork and spoon set and a CD. Odd, but interesting and memory-provoking.

And it's now just one week (almost to the hour) until I leave for Argentina, so I thought it would be a good idea to get back on the blog bicycle. I may have fallen off (and stayed lying on the ground for a considerable time), but I haven't forgotten how to do it. Hell no! Well, maybe I'm a little bit rusty, but I'm sure I'll soon be able to pick up where I left off (not literally, because I'll be nowhere near Brisbane or Fiji this time). All of which means the rambling is back... the over-long sentences with too many brackets (within brackets)... the tangential thoughts... the random observations... the arcane language. And maybe some smileys too, just to prove that I can keep with the times as much as someone half my age. ;-)

So, as the excitement builds, I will leave it there for now. Feel free to comment, question, criticise (not too much of the latter... I can be quite sensitive, you know)... It's your blog as much as it's mine (how naff does that sound? - a sure sign of the crassness to come!)

Well, have a good evening y'all. Happy reading...

James xx

The Brisbane Chronicles (Part II)

Right, straight to the point today, as I want to cover at least another 10 days before leaving for Fiji:


Monday 12th March 2007

Another morning of internettery at the library, combined with strolling through the city (I manage to find different routes every time, which makes it more interesting). The weather was mostly overcast, with quite a cool breeze - a complete change from the heat of the day before.

In the afternoon I got the ferry to Paramatta, which is right at the end of the harbour (there is actually a concrete wall/weir-type thing at the end, separating the harbour from the Paramatta River). Nothing much to speak of in the town itself, but the ferry ride was nice. A couple of historical buildings are trumpeted in the literature, but in practice, as usual with "the new world", they didn't amount to much.

On the way back I went to have a look at the Olympic Stadium and surrounding complexes. Very interesting (and covering a huge area), but quite eerie without any people around. I was the only passenger on the bus between the ferry wharf and the Stadium, so I had a nice chat to the friendly driver. It was a little bit "say it again", but he more than made up in enthusiasm what he lacked in English pronunciation. The highlight of the buildings was probably the train station at the site. It reminded me of the Bilbao underground (one of the few Norman Foster designs I like), and was similarly simple, crisp and effective. No other people on the train mind. I wonder if they'll manage to make better use of the London Olympic facilities after the event?


Tuesday 13th March 2007

Last day in Sydney and the weather was cool and showery. I used the inclement weather as an excuse to get myself organised; updating my blog (the last proper one before yesterday!), e-mailing and researching the next leg of my trip.

The weather cleared up late in the afternoon, so I spent most of the evening sat on the roof of the hostel, chatting to my one remaining chum (Dutch Rob) and making the most of the splendid views and flying-fox-fly-by for one last time.


Wednesday 14th March 2007

Rob helped me carry my stuff to the station in the morning (another sad goodbye), from where I caught the train to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains. The latter part of the two hour train ride (basically as soon as we cleared the suburbs) was really scenic, again revealing how spoilt Sydney is in terms of its location an immediate surroundings.

The first impressions of Katoomba were really good. The town is small and arty (without being too chic or pretentious), and the hostel was great. It is in a converted cabaret club and they have done a great job of retaining the art deco features whilst providing a clean and spacious hostel environment (I should write their marketing blurb!). And as with most of the hostels that manage to win me over, the free-food section was bounteous indeed!

Once I had dumped my stuff and had a bite to eat (I'm sure it involved some of the free food but I can't remember exactly what), I made my way down to Echo Point, which offers a great view over the Blue Mountains in general and the Three Sisters rock formation in particular. It really looked stunning in the late afternoon sunshine (it was back to warm and sunny after the anomaly of the day before) and I had a nice walk around the area before heading back for dinner.

The hostel was quite a contrast to the young and lively crowd in Sydney... perhaps a bit too far towards the mature end of the spectrum for my liking (i.e. really old!). I chatted to George, a retired policeman from Washington (the one near Newcastle, England, not Washington D.C.). He had left his wife at home (she didn't want to travel), and whilst he was nice enough company for an hour or so, I don't imagine we will be friends for life!


Thursday 15th March 2007

I ventured out on a mammoth walk in the morning, which involved a big climb down into the valley below Katoomba (the town basically sits on a plateau, from which a cliff plummets down on one side) and the obvious even bigger climb back up the cliff face further along (steps were provided, luckily - and so was a cable car for the heavy of leg and the heavy of wallet [i.e. Americans]). The forest was nice (interesting sounds - bird song, frogs and crickets), but it was the views from the cliff edge that made the walk truly spectacular. Once again the weather was awesome and the fading blues of the distant ranges a painterly delight.

After all that I needed a lie-down, so lounged in the garden of the hostel after a late lunch. I also managed to locate the local library and abuse its free internet for a while, which made me nearly has happy as finding a whole melon and two mangoes in the free food later that evening. I also had a wander around town, spotting various different parrots and noting the weird set-up of a cliff-top town on the edge of a vast area of wilderness (not something you find hidden down the lanes of Devon every day).


Friday 16th March 2007

I was felling pretty tired after my exploits of the day before (and the weather was a bit duff - cloudy and really windy), so decided against the full day walk I had originally planned. Instead I did a shorter loop in the morning, taking in Leura Falls and Gordon's Lookout, before coming back to the hostel for lunch and having an easy afternoon pottering around the hostel and town.

It was the first day of the Katoomba Folk Festival (mostly traditional folk, roots and blues, rather that the better contemporary stuff that I quite like) so the crusties had started arriving en masse. Not of patch on Sidmouth's throng of crusties, of course, but enough to make me glad to be leaving the following day. I also think I was probably coming down with a cold, which always tends to make me view things through anti-rose-coloured spectacles.

Still, I had a pleasant evening chatting to two Swedes who were staying in my dorm, which unfortunately was followed by the most awful night's sleep ever, as a result of the snorer from hell sleeping in the bunk beneath me and making the whole bed rattle with each eruption of noise (clearly my ear plugs offered no resistance at all to such violent tremors). The incipient cold virus probably didn't help much either.


Saturday 17th March 2007

I got the train back to Sydney in the morning, chatting to the same Swedish lads as the evening before. I then got the bus up the coast to Newcastle. It was a much more scenic drive than I imagined: lush, forested hills, broad estuaries and not too much in the way of development (once we got beyond Sydney's suburbs at least). It was sunny to begin with, but had clouded in by the time I reached Newcastle in the late afternoon. It was really humid... building up to thunderstorms later in the evening.

I was quite surprised to find myself in a 10-share dormitory upon arrival at the hostel - I had booked myself into a 4-share on the internet and paid accordingly. Luckily, when I mentioned it to the guy on reception he gave me back $10, which was more than the difference in room cost. Bonus.

I had a wander around the town (or city as it would be known over here) before it got dark. Despite the black clouds and threat of rain, it seemed a pleasant sort of place to spend a few days: lovely beaches, some nice colonial buildings and an attractive waterfront. I got back just before the rain started, and was greeted by Mica and Jade with a glass of wine (nice one). They are a couple of very friendly Australians (whose respective partners I would meet later, after they finished work - the two blokes are brothers), who are travelling down the coast from their home on the Sunshine Coast, north of Brisbane. They are verging on the hippy (no, make that "they are hippies"), but I can't fault their generosity or kindness. It is always nice to be in a dorm where your feel welcome, rather than being treated like an intruder. I also meet Emile (a Dutch guy) who will re-emerge later down the track...


Sunday 18th March 2007

Woke up feeling really grotty - the cold had arrived! I wonder if the wine the night before had anything to do with it. Hmmm... Still, I managed to drag myself to the Art Gallery, which for a provincial city was rather fine. There was an especially lovely work by an artist whose name I can't remember, which featured pieces of wood, shaped to look like trees, set in a background of cream plaster. I'm not selling this, am I? Well, it was stunning. It really drew me in from across the room and was mesmerising to look at. There was also a lot of good aboriginal art and a great exhibition on how the Australian landscape has influenced art (which would have been a good case study for Roberto's PhD), including an interesting film exploring those kinds of issues.

The area around the Art Gallery is nice... an attractive park in the centre, surrounded by civic buildings both old and new (mostly incongruous, but in a strangely pleasing way).

Having met the two lovely Irish girls (Elisha and Clare) from my dorm earlier in the day (they were out celebrating St. Patrick's Day the night before), we decided to go together to the final of the surfing competition which had been taking place for most of the week. It was a shame that my sore throat made it difficult to talk as they were really easy to talk to and we got on really well from the outset. They drove their car as the action was taking place a few miles down the coast at Merriweather Beach. It was a fun afternoon, but the surfing itself was a bit of an anti-climax, as after a week of perfect waves, the wind had changed direction and the waves were rather blown out. There was also a wine festival on, as part of the proceedings, but given my cold (and the fact that payment was required for tastings) we made do with the free aniseed jellybeans instead.

The hostel was laying on a free pub meal in the evening, so not being one to look a gift-horse in the mouth, I made my way down there with the four Aussies and Elisha and Clare (along with several other hostelees). The fish and chips were pretty rank (and talk about small portions - I had to make myself a sandwich upon return), but when it costs nowt it's hard to complain. I guess they make their money from the drinks they hope to see, but, given my cold, alcohol was the last thing on my mind, and water did nicely, thank you very much.

It was Mothering Sunday on this day, so a big "hip hip hooray" to all the mothers (and mothers-to-be - anyone?) that are reading this. Hip hip...


Monday 19th March 2007

I don't think I can realistically blame the fish and chips, but I had a terrible night: feverish, achey, throat that felt like I was swallowing razor blades. You know the drill... it was full blown man-flu (i.e. a light cold). As a result of this I took to my bed for most of the day, drank lots of tea and honey (often necking the latter straight from the squeezy bottle), and in the moments when I felt strong enough to roll dice I played Yahtzee with the two Irish girls. They both have great senses of humour, so we all enjoyed my predicament (I could hardly speak... and when I did manage to utter a word it was like my voice was breaking all over again*). So, despite being at death's door, it was quite a fun day.

I even managed to drag myself to the pub in the evening, where another free meal awaited my efforts. This time it was chicken and chips (with a side helping of fish and chips, as they had got the orders wrong and brought out too many plates - I was only too happy to oblige and help the waiters avoid getting a beating). Both together they just about added up to a full meal. I was still on the water, so saving money like Norway. There was a pool competition after dinner (a small and cosy affair just featuring people from the hostel and not costing a cent). I paired my coughing and spluttering ineptitude with that of Elisha and we made a great team - losing every game!

Typically the sun was back out with a vengeance during the day, but the last thing I fancied was more sweats after the bed-full of perspiration I had produced during the night. So it was quite nice to have a day just "pottering around the house" for a change.


*or for the first time, if, like me, you think that my voice has yet to resolve itself fully.


Tuesday 20th March 2007

Feeling quite a bit better today, but sounding like Barry White with a bag of gravel in his mouth (not pretty and certainly nothing like a walrus of love).

Went to the library in the morning for assorted internettery (you're meant to pay for e-mail, but I surreptitiously avoided it by typing in Word and only opening gmail for the briefest of moments) and walked back via the water front (and up the very phallic viewing tower, which offers great views over the whole town and river - I must still have been ill, as the climb [100 or so steps] nearly killed me).

After a leisurely lunch and a few games of Yahtzee (the Irish girls and I are becoming addicted... and I keep getting Yahtzees [i.e. all dice with the same value for those not familiar with this particular game of chance], which is quite exciting in my cold-ridden delirious state), I headed out along Nobby's Beach to Nobby's Point. It was quite hazy, but warm enough in the gentle breeze and the beach was lovely.

In the evening, it was our third free meal in a row. I went for vegetable stew and rice, but ended up with both that and sausage and chips, so once again got a full meal for the price of an empty plate. It was also the pub quiz that evening. It was a bit long-winded, but our perseverance as rewarded when we came second (to an even bigger group of nerds), and walked off with a $25 bar tab, which was nice of them as I had put precisely nothing into their coffers over the previous 3 days.


Well, I'm about to leave Newcastle for Port Macquarie in this virtual world and Brisbane for Fiji in the real world, so it seems an appropriate place to stop (that and the library is about to close). I might manage the odd little update as I cross the Pacific, but if not, you can expect the full saga upon my return.

Happy Days...

James xx

The Brisbane Chronicles (Part I)

Don't rub your eyes, pinch yourself or keel over with shock: you are not seeing things. This is an actual update. A bona fide progress report from the other side of the world. Yes, finally (I know, I know, it is long overdue), I am back blogging. In case you've forgotten who I am, please refer to the profile section for details.

I'm now in Brisbane (or Bris Vegas, as it is known locally [for reasons that are yet to become apparent - the best I can come up with is that the words Las and Bris both contain a letter "s"]). The sun is shining outside and yet I am stuck inside the (albeit rather plush and airy) State Library, making the most of the bountiful supply of free-internet terminals. Once again, let's give our collective thanks to the tax-payers of the world and, more specifically, the residents of Queensland (and the politicos and bureaucrats who represent them) who saw fit to spend millions of dollars on this particular edifice. Well done - it's lovely (in a slightly over-the-top postmodern kind-of-way). I should also give a rather smaller nod to the hand-written notes in my diary, without which this would prove a head-scratching exercise (to say the least) and probably end up being a futile attempt to remember the unmemorable*.

Reet, given that it has taken over a month to get to this point, I had better stop procrastinating (I'm sure you've already noted that I am in a particularly waffly mood today), get my head down and start typing.


*That isn't meant to criticise the wonderful sights of Australia, but simply suggest that without a written record it is almost impossible to recall in detail what I did on any particular day. That is definitely one of the pitfalls of being a perennial sightseer (sensory overload!), and rather at odds with my chronological approach to blogging. I probably should have adopted the maxim "if I can't remember it, it's not worth writing about", and just stuck to the particularly exciting bits. Ah well, it's done now. At least it gives a more accurate picture of the ins-and-outs of travelling and, at any rate, is as much a record for me as anyone else.


So, here goes:


Friday 2nd March 2007

It was a return visit to Botanical Gardens in the morning. They really are lovely, with great views over the harbour to supplement the beautiful plants and abundant wildlife (as cliched as it is, I'll never tire of looking across the harbour to the city centre, with the Opera House and Harbour Bridge floating out into the water beside). The Moreton Bay Figs with their gigantic buttress roots and huge shady canopies are simply stunning. There are also thousands of flying foxes hanging in the trees (beware the poo - the smell is fruity to say the least), ibis and cockatoos everywhere you look and butterflies, spiders, cicadas and other creepy crawlies galore. Yes, it is time for the usual trite observation about an wonderful oasis of verdant bliss in the middle of the city. With knobs on.

In the afternoon, for a change of pace (well, more a change of character than pace - both were pretty quiet as it turned out), I went up to the urb (as the otherwise tautologically-named "inner-city suburb" shall henceforth be known) of Paddington. It is a really nice area with beautiful Victorian terraces (all wrought iron balconies and shady avenues of trees and million dollar price-tags) and (most importantly of all for the budget conscious travel [aka tight git!]) a library with free internet access. But I think I've already said this about the previous day, haven't I? It's so long ago now that I can't for the life of me remember what I wrote (and can't be bothered to refer back to my earlier entry). Anyway, after meandering my way through the urb, I went to the library and then to the cinema. Old Joy was certainly an interesting film. It was very minimalist (i.e nothing happened) and luckily (for me) quite short too. My sort of film, given that I don't like busy and I don't like long. The Yo La Tengo (one of my favourite bands for those not in the know) score was great and their question and answer session proved quite entertaining (more due to the geeky questions from the audience than the band's responses, mind). It made for an interesting evening and certainly make a change from the other stuff that I had been doing up until that point (mostly involving the great outdoors).

I can't remember what I did in the evening once I got back from the film and I didn't see fit to write it down, so it probably involved food and bed and not much else. Although, having said that, my friendships with Lisette, Rob and Roberto were progressing apace and I'm sure that chatting with them would also have fitted in the equation somewhere.


Saturday 3rd March 2007

Must try and be more concise today, as an antidote to the overwrought entry of Friday 2nd.

I did a full tour of central Sydney on foot (in glorious sunshine). I walked around the Opera House, under the bridge (yet to walk across it though), through the Botanical Gardens (visit number 3 - still really lovely). In fact, it is beautiful all around the waterfront - especially under the bridge and around The Rocks (one of the oldest bits and the heart of colonial Sydney). And it is such a nice city just to wander around - thus justifying my general plan to spend quite a bit of time just going on random walks around different parts of the city.

I had the room to myself in the evening, which made a nice change. Everyone else was attending the Mardi Gras Parade. Of course, it was a shame to miss The Dykes on Bikes and other assorted displays of over-the-top gayness, but I wanted to save my energy for tomorrow's festival and also avoid the crowds that had already started to build as I made my way back to the hostel.

It was fascinating to watch the thousands of bats (flying foxes) from the window of my dorm. They leave their perches in the Botanical Gardens at dusk and fly off (directly past my window) to do whatever bats do during the night (eating I guess). They seemed particularly abundant this evening, so perhaps they too were joining the crowds at Mardi Gras.


Sunday 4th March 2007

Seems a bit strange writing all this so long after the event. Quite interesting though - I had forgotten bits of it already.

Today was the day of the Laneway Festival. I had booked it about a month previously and was excited about seeing some live music for the first time in ages. The line up was a relatively obscure mix of local and international indie bands, which is just the way I like it. The location was great, with the main stage in a small square in the heart of the city (more gorgeous Moreton Figs to provide some welcome shade), another couple of stages in small lanes off said square (the skyscrapers rising dramatically on each side created amazing narrow spaces... unlike any concert venue I have been to before.) and one stage in a basement club (which I didn't go to because they wouldn't let you take in your own water - miserable gits). All told, I had a really good time. There were lots of bands that I wanted to see - and apart from the Sleepy Jackson (who tried "rocking-out" to a ridiculous and unflattering degree) not one of them was a disappointment. Camera Obscura, Yo La Tengo and the Walkmen were particular highlights, but it was high-quality all round and between acts it was fun to watch the Sydney Fashionistas strutting their stuff in their comedy garb, which included a preponderance of charity shop crinoline, large leather boots (in 30 degree heat!) and over-sized sunglasses. I myself revelled in the fashion faux-pas of a faded t-shirt, walking shorts, rucksack and comfy trainers. Give it 10 years and they'll all be wearing it.

I was really lucky with the weather - it was fine all day, but there were massive thunderstorms during the later part of the evening/night (it started raining just after I got back to the hostel). It was fun to watch the storms from the dorm window. There are great views across the Domain (an area of open space next to to the Botanical Gardens) from the window and we (Rob, Rob, Lisette and I) desperately tried to take good photos of the lightning as it forked over the city, lighting up the night sky and appearing to strike the skyscrapers of the CBD one by one.


Monday 5th March 2007

Only 3 entries in (plus a load of over-edited pretentious preamble) and nearly a day spent doing it. It seems that travelling has failed to dull my procrastination skills. That and the (over-)excitement of returning to the internet age after weeks in the wilderness adds up to heaps of surfing and not much output. I suppose it has been interspersed with other necessary internet stuff, the search for a replacement tent pole and a visit to the Art Gallery, but even so, I need to quicken the pace if I am to be up-to-date by tomorrow evening.

So, Monday 5th:

I went to the art gallery in the morning (very big but tending towards quantity rather than quality - still, the complimentary newspaper was a nice touch) and then walked around the city centre (in between showers) in the afternoon. In fact, I got soaked on my way back from the library in the evening - but I didn't mind so much as it wasn't at all cold.

In the evening I cooked curry for the troops (the aforementioned gang of three) and we partook in the Hostel quiz. Good fun, but what can I say: we wuz robbed. Partly as a result of Roberto mishearing one of the questions (and with me in the kitchen, I was unable to countermand) and partly as a result of ineptitude on the part of the quiz master. Well, it isn't a proper quiz unless it ends in an argument about the veracity of one (or more) of the answers.


Tuesday 6th March 2007

The sun was back out after the low cloud and rain of the day before (still really warm - nice and tropical).
The morning involved more library/internet antics and a visit to Centennial Park (a mad dash to the toilet - the cinema next to the library was closed!) to suss out the location of the outdoor cinema where Dutch Rob and I were going to see a film in the evening. Just as well I went to look as it was much more of a trek than I had imagined. I walked back via Elizabeth Bay (plush residences) and Wooloomooloo, both of which enjoy lovely harbour-side settings

In the afternoon I went to the state library (where my flip-flop broke - I had to walk back in bare feet like a hobo/person from New Zealand) and generally pottered around.

In the evening I went back to the open-air cinema in Centennial Park (by bus, this time, as Rob was making risotto [yum] to take with us, which, as aways, took much longer than anticipated. The film was a documentary about Frank Gehry, who, it turns out, is a bit of a character. I enjoyed the film, even tough it started raining as soon as we got off the bus. It then proceeded to rain on and off throughout the screening, although Rob had an umbrella and I had my waterproof, so we managed to avoid getting completely soaked. It's just a shame the bottom half of the screen was periodically covered by the umbrellas of the people in front of me and the sound was interrupted by the noise of rustling cagoules and plastic sheeting (some people had come really well prepared and made themselves feel right at home - i.e. it obviously didn't occur to them that there might be people around them who they were disturbing]). At least the rain helps to keep Sydney lush and tropical looking.

There was quite a lot about the Bilbao Guggenheim in the film, which reminded me of the trip I made there with Mum, and the rain added to the memories! Still, it was interesting to be outside and watch the flying-foxes soaring overhead during the film. Perhaps they are going to Centennial Park when we watch them flying past our window of an evening. I like things like that, which offer a touch of the exotic. Generally the wildlife in Australia is really interesting (there are also loads of different birds about the place and the odd lizard - no snakes yet though). All of which (added to the warmth) means that I think I prefer it to New Zealand.


Wednesay 7th March 2007

Lisette moved out of the dorm and into a shared house in the morning (between Central Station and Redfern), so I helped her with some of ther bags. I had just bought a weekly travel pass so was only too happy to make use of it, see a different area of the city and offer a helping hand, all at the same time. She showed me around the University on the way back and let me check my e-mail on the Uni's lovely Macs. Fun times!

I went to Manly in the afternoon (which involves a very pleasant ferry journey across the harbour). Manly has seafronts on both the harbour and ocean sides, which are just a few minutes walk apart. It's a lovely place and I spent a couple of hours lounging on the beach. It wasn't that hot (low 20s) and the sea was really rough, so I didn't venture in for a swim. There were also loads of bluebottles (tiny blue Portuguese Man O'War jellyfish), which didn't exactly make swimming an inviting prospect. I managed a paddle though and the sea didn't feel too bad (low 20s, I think).

There was free wine (well, "goon" as it's called here - the cheapest cask wine you can get) and cheese on the roof of the hostel in the evening (more great views across the city). And, in case I haven't said so already there are free pancakes for breakfast every morning at the hostel - not exactly my fav foodstuff, but when it's free it's hard to say no. So the hostel is proving a really enjoyable place to stay (and all for a bargainous $19 a night). Of course, the good company helps, and although our little posse is down from four to three, it is going to be a hard place to leave...


Thursday 8th March 2007

The morning involved a tour of three different libraries (my new pastime it would seem - and a good way of exploring the city), in a search for faster free internet. Kings Cross was the most modern set-up (in a lovely new building), but unfortunately only allowed internet for research purposes, which funnily enough excluded e-mail and blogging. Sigh.

I walked from Bondi to Coogee in the afternoon, stopping at Bronte beach for a swim (no jellyfish there and lovely clean water - still a big swell though). There was an amazing thunderstorm just out to sea. Incredibly black sky and vivid lightning. Luckily it just circled round and apart from a few heavy drops on the way into Coogee (resulting in a mad dash to some shelter - whereupon it stopped immediately) there wasn't actually any rain/thunder where I was. It was a lovely walk, proving that Sydney has a great coastline and fabulous beaches, in addition to its world-reknowned harbour, beautiful open spaces and pockets of interesting architecture.

Again, I have nothing noted for the evening's activities (my handwritten notes are getting scantier by the day), although it could well be the evening that Roberto made lasagna, which was delicious (even more so coming from a genuinely humble and open-minded Italian), and washed down, in time-honoured tradition, with copious amounts of red wine.


Friday 9th March 2007

The library beckoned again in the morning. Yes, it would seem that I am as boring as the blog entries that I write... However, in my defence, there are guidebooks galore in addition to free internet (and wending my way through the streets of Paddington is always a pleasure), so I wasn't just being cyber-nerd.

In the afternoon, I was a little more active and got the ferry to the other side of the harbour (more beautiful views - I am becoming rather blase about seeing the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, although will never tire of their splendour). I got off at the Zoo (choosing not to go in and thus avoid another hefty entrance fee). Instead I walked in the opposite direction around Bradley Head and through Sydney Harbour National Park. I walked quite a long way - probably 10 miles or so. It was really nice - through patches of native bush andpast some lovely looking harbour-side properties. They have built a sort-of amphitheatre at Bradley Head (very "landscape architecture"), which offers some of the best views across the harbour and is actually pretty hard to fault (good materials, sensitively designed, well-maintained, unbeatable location). And as seems usual with slightly out-of-the way places, there was hardly a soul about. It was a gorgeous sunny afternoon and as tempting as it was I didn't have a swim. The wind was quite cold and in the only area with a shark net the water was a bit murky looking. Still, I was able to paddle and the views across to the city (Opera House/Bridge etc.) were uniformly amazing.

Lisette had invited us around to her new place for dinner in the evening, which again made a nice change from the backpacker norm. There was a Mexican feast waiting for us (washed down with a nice chilled rose [add your own acute accent to change it from a flower into a wine]) and whilst the house is a bit rough around the edges (cockroaches - which it would seem are more-or-less everywhere in Sydney - and peeling paint), it had character by the bucket load (including a lovey courtyard garden with large trees growing in the narrowest of spaces).


Saturday 10th March 2007

In the morning I went around a few different parts of the city (Darling Harbour, Potts Point and Glebe) to look at some landscape architecture projects with Roberto. It was all very interesting (and in great company) and there were some more lovely developments next to the harbour (along with a good helping of tat - but even that is generally blessed with a gorgeous setting. I can't remember whether or not I wrote previously that he is a doing a PhD about Australian Landscape Architecture... well, it sounds a bit of a mammoth task... looking at how both the Australian landscape has influenced art and how modern landscape architecture is responding to the challenges of the Australian environment. Interesting though... and perhaps even enough to make me think that one day I might feel refreshed enough to enter back into the world of Landscape Architecture (no fears of an imminent return, mind).

In the afternoon I went to Coogee beach with Dutch Rob - the site of my second swim on the East coast of Australia. It was great fun frolicking in the waves, which can be viewed as either body-surfing or getting totally pummelled by tons of water, depending on your perspective. The weather was great once again (the morning had been really hot although it was
slightly cooler on the cast) and the combination of sun, sea, sand and walking miles had left me with that pleasant glow of contented exhaustion.
Being Saturday evening I decided to make a hearty soup for myself and the two Robs. Made loads so offered some to a skinny German called Alex (shy and awkward, but friendly enough and the sort of person who make you a bit sorry for them in a "they need mothering" kind of way).


Sunday 11th March 2007

Well, I think this is going to be the last entry for today. At least I will be able to say that I am now less than a month behind schedule, in the world of blog updates. Which sounds somewhat better than 6 weeks (as it stood this morning), it has to be said. I'm not sure I'll manage an entire month's-worth of updates tomorrow, but I'll give it my best shot. Until then, here is one final day of ramblings:

In the morning I helped Roberto carry his stuff to the station (he's off to Canberra to look at more Landscape Architecture projects). I was sorry to see him go, as he isreally nice (and for an Italian he's exceptionally open-minded and not at all dogmatic - he'll even eat curry!). Upon returning to the hostel I discovered that I'm now in a room with 7 Dutch people! I'll need to buy a pair of clogs (klompen) at this rate. Still, the fresh tulips are nice.

I went to Manly Beach (again with Dutch Rob - also really nice) in the afternoon. Swim number 3! Sea was gorgeous and so was the ferry ride through theharbour.

Again there is a lack of written evidence regarding the events of the evening, but I seem to recall cooking together with Rob and then sitting on the roof of the hostel, enjoying the balmy evening air and the glorious view of the city skyline.


If you got to the end in one sitting I can but commend your tenacity and wish you luck with the next instalment (likely to be even longer, I'm afraid)

Best wishes,
James xx